If the 1960s could be described in one word, it would be revolutionary. The decade was full of cultural resets and important moments to be remembered for years, both social and political – from the Civil Rights Movement, the Space Race, the rise of the Beatles and the creation of the miniskirt. These intense shifts in society were documented in more ways than one, one of the most prevalent being through wardrobe. Fashion started catering to younger generations, becoming more colorful and experimentative. Important female figures such as Grace Kelly, Audrey Hepburn, Twiggy, Jane Birkin and Brigitte Bardot influenced the fashion trends of the decade. Both mature and younger generations had a defined look, though there were subcultures and social advances that would guide the development of fashion throughout these the years.
Transitions from one decade to the next
The ideal look in the 1950s was categorized by uniformity – the modern woman was elegant and reformed, and Dior’s New Look influenced womenswear for years. This conservative but stylistic approach to fashion continued during the beginning of the 1960s, with the boxy skirt suit, A-line skirts, and simple accessories to accompany the outfit being staples for every mature woman interested in looking put-together and fashionable.
One of the most influential women in fashion during this time that promoted this look was First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy, who was admired for her classic look consisting of pastel skirt suits, matching pillbox hat, white gloves, and pearls. In this moment, European designers like Givenchy and Balenciaga dominated the fashion industry, and Paris was still considered the fashion capital. All this would change in 1963, with the murder of Jacqueline Kennedy’s husband JFK. At that moment, Jacqueline would disappear from the public eye and so would the conservative, simple look that was so popularized.
The domination of London youth culture
The term “Swinging London” refers to the moment England, specifically London, began dominating fashion, music, and culture, with the youth being the forefront of the movement. British bands like The Who and The Beatles influenced menswear, and Mod fashion began to gain more attention. Carnaby Street and The Kings Road were fashion hotspots, with tons of up-and-coming boutiques that catered to youth culture.
The Mod movement was propelled by young Londoners who used fashion as a means of expression and individualism. The Modernists, or Mods, were young British men that listened to modern Jazz and made spending time with the arts a priority. The Mods had a choice of style opposing the 50s “greaser” look – men wore tailored Italian suits and elegant outfits that they could later show off at local cafes with their friends. Fashion stopped being an afterthought for men, and menswear was sophisticated but simple.
Although starting as a male movement, women quickly joined and created their own style of Mod. The young, fashionable woman accompanied her look with clean cut hair and intense makeup: short bobs and thick bangs became popularized thanks to hairstylist Vidal Sassoon, and heavy eyeliner and mascara completed the outfit. In womenswear, fashion models like Twiggy and Peggy Moffat inspired young women with a style characterized by simple, colorful, and androgynous - almost childlike - designs. Womenswear had a straight silhouette, almost eliminated the waistline, and instead promoting a look formed by clean lines and boxy shapes. British designer Mary Quant was one of the pioneers of mid-Sixties Mod fashion by introducing the miniskirt and minidress (though some fashion historians consider designer John Bates the true creator of the miniskirt).
Other designers that contributed to the development of Mod were Pierre Cardan, Paco Rabanne and Emelio Pucci, who implemented the use of new, man-made synthetic fabrics like acrylics and polyesters in a futuristic and innovative way. French designers followed the trend and produced their own Mod-inspired designs, one of the best examples being Yves Saint Laurent’s Mondrian dress. Bright colors and bold patterns became the latest trend for the youth, and for the first time it seemed that these younger generations had their own distinct subculture and look. Before the 1960s the norm was to dress emulating their mothers and fathers in a conservative manner, but now fashion was a way for younger generations to celebrate their individuality.
The rise of psychedelics and the hippie aesthetic
As a predecessor for the future 70s, “Make Love Not War” hippie movement, the late Sixties continued with the usage of bright colors and striking patterns but with a much different silhouette. The androgynous look was fashionable for both menswear and womenswear. Both men and women wore similar outfits consisting of bell-bottom jeans, tie dye, headbands, and sandals. Thin, comfortable materials like polyester, chiffon and paisley were commonly used. Loose, flowing pieces were becoming popularized thanks to the promotion of sexual liberation and use of hallucinatory drugs.
The influence today
The fashion during the 1960’s can’t be put into one singular box. The transition from the conservative 50s to Mod fashion to the hippie movement shows how dynamic and revolutionary fashion during this decade was. These distinct societal changes didn’t only affect fashion during those years but can also be observed today. Huge haute couture houses like Marc Jacobs, Louis Vuitton, and Jean Paul Gaultier have created entire collections paying homage to the fashion of this decade, and the rise of 60s-inspired graphic eyeliner has never been more popular with young it-girls. One thing is for certain: we can thank the past for the pieces we love in the present.
