The name “Dior” evokes a sense of elegance, glamour and a timeless approach to fashion. Its impossible to meet anyone interested in fashion who doesn’t know of Christian Dior and his influence in the industry. It hadn’t always been like this. Before the debut of his first collection under his name, two years after the end of WWII, Dior was an underground designer with mediocre success. But how did a historical event that ended in despair and disaster help the launch of a fashion giant’s career, and what exactly made his career take off so successfully? We can thank two factors: the social and political consequences of WWII, and the search of hope and new life… with new opportunities, and a New Look.
In 1945, France was destroyed in more ways than one. With millions of buildings crushed, industrial and agricultural production slower than ever before, and an unequal distribution of supplies, the French population was sick, hungry and hopeless. Food rationing continues until 1949. France had changed. The memories of glamour and exclusivity that Paris used to evoke was completely erased, and New York became the new cultural center. There was a need of another renaissance, a way to bounce back into the art scene and the iconic place it was before the war. This started with what France knew best – fashion, and Christian Dior was the pioneer.
Dior before the War
Christian went through many different studies and jobs before settling into fashion. Although he was passionate about art since a young age, Dior actually studied political science with the intention of becoming a diplomat. Shortly after leaving school in 1928, Dior knew he wanted to work some way in the arts and opened a small art gallery, which was forced to close in 1931. This is when he starts integrating himself into the world of fashion by selling fashion sketches and becoming an illustrator. He later worked for the fashion houses of Robert Piguet and Lucien Long. Dior was given the opportunity to work for Philippe et Gaston, but refused, since he wanted to start working under his own name. And that’s exactly what he did. In 1946, the house of Dior was founded.
A revolutionary silhouette
The first collection for the house of Christian Dior was released in 1947 and took the fashion world by surprise. The name “New Look” wasn’t even created by Dior, but by the editor – in – chief of Harper’s Bazaar at the time, Carmel Snow. There was no better way to describe the clothes that came out on that runway. The cinched waist and A-line skirt were an intense contrast to the bleak utilitarian, uniform-like attire worn by women everywhere, after having to give up expensive silks and unique pieces in order to save money for more important things. But Dior intended to spread a different message with his garments. The Bar Suit and full, almost princess-like skirt reclaimed the idea of beauty and fantasy during a time where such ideas were hard to focus on.
Controversy in the industry
It’s not often that a designer and their creation make such a profound impact on the fashion designer, and Dior’s New Look was one of those special moments. Just as with everything, change will either be accepted as it will be criticized. Feminists and fashion designers like Coco Chanel, the pioneer for introducing masculine tailoring into womenswear, mocked the garments. They didn’t like the idea of long skirts and the cinched wasp waist that resembled early 20th century corsets and petticoats or the idealized femininity the look promoted. On the other hand, women all over the world embraced the look for what it represented. The New Look reflected a change in mood for society and brought back the exclusive, feminine woman. No longer were women wearing loose fitting clothing and short dresses, that only reminded society of the stress and sadness those outfits reflected – Dior would change fashion forever, and gave the fashion industry the platform it needed to begin again.
Not only would it change fashion, but it gave France the cultural renaissance it so desperately needed. France was once again remembered for the influence it always had and the unique, artistic life it provided. Dior inspired French designers to open up houses and create their own reiteration of the New Look, and the world saw France as a place of glamour and creativity. After the dreariness and bleak attitude France adopted as consequence of WWII, fashion inspired a new way of life and a type of reconstruction of the mindset.